The west coast is definitely worth a look – a mecca for surfers. Wild and sometimes misty, but very dramatic. If you're feeling adventurous take the cross country track from Budens to Pedralva (a village that time forgot), which leads you through the National Park. Then turn right onto the main road and head towards Carrapeteira – a glorious sweep of beach with crashing surf.

Or, take the main road towards Cape St. Vincent, off at Vila do Bispo and head north toward Aljezur, the beaches are enroute. Ask for directions to a restaurant in Carrepeteira called the Cabrite (the goat).

Praia Armada near Carrapateira is our favourite beach, – a surfers’ haven (you can take lessons on long boards here) with a jaw-dropping view over the Atlantic. Try the old shack (which sells great fried praws and grilled fish) on the dirt track road from Praia Armada to Carrepeteira, or the Sitia do Rio restaurant  00351 282973119 (further along this track towards Carrepeteira).

Also, visit Praia de Castelejo, approached via a narrow winding mountain road (more like South America than Portugal), which has stunning rock formations, and a restaurant/bar, which serves good Portuguese fare, prawns,  homemade burgers and omlets, and is open for most of the year.